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Radiator valves control how much hot water flows through a radiator, which in turn sets how warm it gets. The right valve improves comfort, efficiency, and the finished look of your room.
TRVs automatically adjust flow using a temperature sensor in the head (wax or liquid). Set a number (e.g., 3 = ~20°C) and the valve modulates to hold the room near that temperature, saving energy compared to fully-open manual valves.
Best for: Bedrooms, living rooms, seldom-used rooms.
Avoid: The room with your main wall thermostat (they’ll “fight” each other).
A simple on/off (or “more/less”) tap with no auto control. Cheap, reliable, and perfect where a TRV isn’t appropriate (e.g., rooms with the main thermostat).
Usually the “other” valve on the radiator (opposite the TRV/manual). Once set with a small adjustment cap, it restricts flow to balance the system so every radiator heats evenly. Fit one on every rad and don’t use it for daily control.
Angled (most common): Pipe from wall or floor into bottom corner of the rad.
Straight: Pipe runs straight into the valve (from floor directly up, or along the wall into bottom port in a straight line).
Corner: Neat, sideways outlet for pipework coming along the wall; keeps the head tucked parallel to the skirting.
Angled valve vs straight valve diagram with arrows showing pipe direction
A compact twin-entry valve for radiators or towel rails with two bottom connections 50mm apart. Clean look, easy isolation, and ideal for vertical designer rads and ladders. Available in manual or TRV versions.
[Product link placeholder: H-Block TRV 50mm – Brushed]
Prep & isolate: Turn off the heating. Close both existing valves and drain the radiator (use a tray/towels).
Swap tails (if needed): Most valves include a new radiator tail (½" BSP to the rad). Wrap PTFE on the tail threads; tighten into the radiator.
Position the new valve: either using Compression: (15mm typical, 10mm with reducers): Slide nut & olive on pipe, seat valve, tighten. Alternatively, you can use Push-fit: Use the correct insert; push fully home.
Lockshield setting: Re-open both sides, bleed air, then partially close the lockshield to balance (small adjustments until all rads heat evenly).
TRV checks: Keep the sensing head horizontal and unobstructed by curtains/covers. Use the decorators cap (if supplied) to hold a TRV closed during system fill/pressure tests.
Visual Installation Guide Of A Radiator Valve Shop: Compression Reducer Set 15–10m
Choosing the right radiator valves is simple when you know what to look for: for automatic room control and energy efficiency, fit a thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) rather than a manual valve; TRVs maintain set temperatures and help cut heating costs. Match the valve body to your pipe direction, use angled radiator valves for wall-fed pipework, straight radiator valves for floor-fed runs, and corner radiator valves where space is tight or you want the tidiest look. If you have bottom-inlet radiators or towel rails with 50mm pipe centres, select a 50mm H-block (also called a central connection or H-valve) for a neat, symmetrical finish. Choose a finish that complements your radiator and bathroom hardware: chrome, brushed steel, matt black, anthracite, white or brushed brass to keep the design cohesive. Most modern TRVs are bi-directional, meaning they work on flow or return; if yours isn’t, install it on the flow side for accurate control.
Do bathrooms need TRVs? You can fit one, but avoid putting a TRV on the radiator in the same space as the main wall thermostat.
Will valves fit microbore? Yes with the correct reducers.
What size threads? Radiator ports are typically ½" BSP; pipes are commonly 15mm in the UK.
